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The
Route
Las
Vegas, Grand Canyon, Page, Monument Valley, Moab, Rocky Mountain NP,
Mount Rushmore, Yellowstone NP, Grand Teton NP, Salt Lake City, Zion,
Las Vegas
Our
holiday started on 26 May 2004, when we drove to Crawley and stayed
the night at the Copthorne Hotel, Effingham Park. We flew from
Gatwick Airport to Las Vegas the following day and hired a rental car
(Chrysler Jeep) and stayed at pre-booked hotels, mainly Great
Western. Our total distance was a shade over 3,800 miles, and we
returned home on Sunday 13 June.
Click
on the days to see the pictures for each day. |
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After a long 10 hour flight, we arrived at
McLaren International Airport at 12.55 pm. A delay due to no
dis-embarkation gate being available and a lengthy wait at US
Customs, followed by the collection of our Dollar rental car resulted
in our arrival at the Luxor Hotel (less than 1/2 mile from where we
had landed) at 4 pm. It had taken 10 hours to cross the Atlantic and
3 hours to cross the Las Vegas Strip! We had a cold shower and a rest
before setting out to see Las Vegas. Disaster struck by our camcorder
not working and we were forced to find a camera shop and buy a new
one, at a higher price than we could have purchased in the UK! We
walked the Strip as far as the Venetian Hotel, where we marvelled at
the canals inside the hotel. If you visit Vegas, make sure you go
inside all the Hotels, as you are very welcome and it is all free. We
caught a bus back along the Strip and fell into bed exhausted at
06.30 am British Summer Time.
We awoke at 4.30 am and ate a hearty breakfast at
the Hotel, before setting out for the Hoover Dam. Initially we took
the wrong route out of Vegas, due to John ignoring Penny's
directions, but soon all was well and we parked up on the Arizona
side of the Hoover Dam for a scenic viewpoint. The route south on
US93 was mainly over desert and not very interesting, all the way to
Kingman, where we joined the Interstate 40 East, leaving it at
Williams. Here we revisited Twisters Cafe, where two years previous
we had stopped for a milk shake. The cafe is retro 1950's and 1960's
and has a great atmosphere and great milk shakes. We then took US90
to Grand Canyon, where we first called in to Mather Point and Yavapai
Point to get some great views on the Canyon. We parked the car at
Yavapai Lodge and caught a (free) shuttle bus to the Village, where
we then jumped onto another (free) shuttle bus to go along the West
Rim Drive. There are five viewpoint stops en route, finishing at
Hermit's Rest. We decided to get off at the first stop, Maricopa
Point, and walked along the Rim paths to Hopi Point, then on to
Mohavi Point, where we rejoined the bus for the remainder of the
trip. Walking along the Rim is excellent, with hardly any other
people around. In the evening we drove to nearby Tusayan, where we
had a meal and watched native Navajo Indians sing and dance as
entertainment. We returned to bed totally exhausted. |
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Saturday 29
May  Page
Up early again and along the Desert View Drive,
which is a 30 mile scenic road along the South Rim of the grand
Canyon. Stops were plentiful to allow us to soak up some superb views
of the continuing Grand Canyon. We stopped at the end of the road to
visit the Watch Tower, which provides an excellent vantage point to
gaze westwards along the Canyon. Then on to Cameron, where we took
US89 north towards Page. The road splits later, with US89A turning
off to the North Rim. Just past the turn off, there is a pull in
overlook at Echo Cliffs, giving an 180 degree vista towards the
Vermilion Cliffs, Marble Canyon and the Paria Plateau. Indian arts
and crafts were for sale here and we bought a lovely bracelet for our
grand-daughter Jessica. Having checked into the Best Western at Lake
Powell Inn at Page, we made our way to Antelope Canyon, some 3 miles
down the road. At the entrance to the Antelope Canyon turn off, we
duly paid our $12 entry fee each, plus another $15 each for a guided
tour if the Canyon. Expensive, but that is the rate. In 2002 we had
visited the Lower Canyon, just across the road, and were impressed by
the rock formations and wonderful colours of the rock in the light,
with the slot canyon. The Upper Canyon was a couple of miles off the
highway a we took a lift on a 4 wheel truck, which bounced and raced
along a dirt track across the desert. A young Indian boy then
escorted us into the slot canyon. The Upper Canyon was much easier to
walk than the Lower Canyon as it was wider at the bottom. One thing
that caught my eye (metaphorically) was an enormous cow pat half way
up the canyon wall, (some 20 feet or so), and I was told that the cow
responsible had been at the top of the canyon. Just as well that cows
do not fly!!
Afterwards we drove back to Page, did a little
shopping, then viewed the Glen Canyon Dam and Bridge. This is one of
the most spectacular man made sights I have seen, and although
viewing it for the third time, this did not diminish the achievement
of its construction. In the evening we drove towards the Marina and
noticed how the water level appeared to be vastly reduced over
previous years.
Sunday
30 May  Monument
Valley
We started the day by returning to Glen Canyon
Dam Visitor Center and joining a (free) guided tour of the Dam. We
went inside the Dam , first by elevator to walk across the top of the
dam, then down again to the bottom and to see the hydro electric
generators. It was well worth the time and provided an enjoyable
hour. Security was strict, whereas when we visited two years ago it
was virtually non-existent. We then drove from Page to Monument
Valley, first along the US98. The road was an easy ride, we travelled
at 65 mph and did not overtake anyone, or see any other car going our
way for over 3/4 hour. We then joined US160 eastbound and at Keyenta
took the US133 to Golding's Trading Post at Monument Valley. The
hotel room was excellent, with a panoramic view across the valley. We
had previously visited Monument Valley and driven ourselves around
the tourist circuit, but this time we took a 3.5 hour guided trip
from Gouldings. We saw much more of the park and our Navajo Indian
guide took us off the regular route and provided commentary on our
travels. Overall a very pleasant day, which included visiting the
Museum at Gouldings and attending a superb audio / visual slide
presentation in their theatre in the evening. |
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Monday 31 May  Moab
Dawn arrived with a perfect sun-rise behind the
classic silhouette of Monument Valley. As we left on the road to
Moab, we had some great views behind us of the Valley, including the
famous view of the long straight road. We passed Mexican Hat and
stopped at Blanding where we visited the Information Center and
Museum. We continued on our way and took a diversion to see Newspaper
Rock, with it's petroglyphs.
On arrival at Moab we went straight to the
Canyonlands by Night office, to book tickets for the evening
excursion. We were greeted by Preston, who we remembered from our
previous visit in 2002. We mentioned that we were about to take a
trip along the Potash Road and he offered to accompany us and show us
the points of interest. Along the road he showed us many things that
we would have missed without his help. He then suggested a number of
trips we could take by our car in the afternoon and we decided to
take the La Sal Mountains Loop road. We started along the Colorado
River on Highway 128 and then took a right turn towards Fisher's
Towers and Castle Rock. Soon we were out of the red rocks and
climbing towards the snow capped mountains. View back towards Fishers
Towers were spectacular and some 3 hours later we returned to Moab.
The evening was spent with Canyonlands by Night,
which started with a Dutch Oven dinner. The food was exceptional and
we met up with other holiday makers over the meal. As evening came we
boarded a jet boat and headed up river. I mentioned on our pervious
trip that our guide Preston has a great sense of humour and we
enjoyed his witty comments as we cruised along. As the final strands
of daylight went, the boat engines cut and we drifted back with the
current. An audio tape with music and commentary played and then the
canyon walls erupted with light as the truck on the valley road
turned on it's searchlight to reveal shapes and shadows on the
cliffs. We slowly moved down the river, under a full moon, with the
truck keeping up with the boat. Light was projected against both
sides of the canyon and out trip back lasted some 30 minutes. This
was an experience to savour for ever. If you visit Moab it is a must. www.canyonlandsbynight.com
Tuesday 1
June  towards
Granby
We took the highway to Interstate 70, which saved
time as we had explored the scenic route along the Colorado River on
the previous day. The interstate was a fairly boring journey through
rocky terrain, but after Grand Junction it transformed into what must
be the prettiest interstate in the USA. Following the Colorado River,
the road twists through breath-taking scenery, for mile after mile.
We stopped to view Vail, but it was closed! The mountain gondola was
out of service for a couple of weeks and the Lionshead shopping area
was deserted. We turned towards Granby and arrived for our lodgings
at The Inn at Silver Creek. |
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Wednesday
2 June  Rocky
Mountain NP
From Granby we travelled northwards, past Lake
Granby to the Rocky Mountain National Park. Just before the park
entrance Penny saw a moose in the woods and then inside the park we
immediately saw a herd of elk. The road followed the Colorado River,
the source is near Lake Granby. Here the river was not much more than
a stream. We stopped at the Coyote Valley Trailhead and walked the
bank of the river, seeing Canadian geese and and elk. The view across
the meadow, with the mountains behind was wonderful. We drove on,
stopping at various pull-ins and trailheads, so made slow progress,
but there was so much to see. We then drove higher and higher along
the Trail Ridge Road until there was snow along the road, which got
deeper as we drove higher. The scenic views were tremendous and
exceeded expectations. We were over 12,000 feet (2 miles high) above
sea level and for a couple of hours we drove high in the mountains,
often above tree level. As we eventually descended we arrived at
Sheep Lake, where bighorn sheep and more elk grazed the pastures.
Then onto Estes Park, where smart houses and holiday homes clustered
along the river side. We then followed the Big Thompson River for
miles along a splendid river valley before joining Interstate 25
northwards at Loveland. Two hours driving at 80 mph took us to
Highway 18/20 turn off and the road to Lusk, where we were to spend
the night at the Pioneer Court Best Western Hotel. The railway track
follows this road and we saw four trains with coal trucks. Penny
counted one at over 125 trucks, powered by 3 locomotives, carrying
coal from Gillette to the East.
Thursday
3 June  Custer
National Park
We got up early at 6 am and the road from Lusk
was free of traffic. We drove across the grassland plains, with
little sign of life apart from herds of beef cattle, plus the
occasional elk on the side of the road. We arrived at Wind Caves NP
around 9.30 am, Prairie dogs stood erect at the roadside and an eagle
flew nearby. We did the Natural Entrance Tour of the caves, which
involved walking down some 300 plus steps inside the cave, with an
elevator ride back to the top. The caves were dry and we learnt that
much of the caves complex had not yet been charted, even though they
were developed in the 1920's.
We then took the Custer Scenic Byway and saw
bison along the road. Then we drove into Custer State Park, taking
the loop road around the park. Back on the scenic byway, we drove the
beautiful Needles section, arriving at Sylvan Lake, We would have
liked to have stayed longer at this point, but as usual the day was
going too fast, so we made our way on to the Crazy Horse Memorial.
This carving out of a mountain is still only half complete, after 50
years work and is an amazing story of one man and latterly his
family, who have a mission to blast the monument out of the mountain.
Next we drove to one of the most famous landmarks
in the USA - Mount Rushmore. After a stop to see the sights and a
king sized ice cream, we travelled on to the scenic route into
Spearfish, where we spent the night and the Best Western Black Hills Hotel. |
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Friday 4
June  Drive
to Cody
We took Interstate 90 from Spearfish and drove
210 miles along the highway, then left at Route 14 towards Cody. The
US14 soon becomes the Big Horn Mountain Scenic Byway, as it crosses
the mountains from Drayton to Shell. Storm clouds covered the
mountains and we heard thunder in the distance, but the weather
stayed dry for us. We reached the snow line and the views were
spectacular, along the 60 mile drive. Near the end of the scenic
byway is Shell Falls and a self guided nature trail enables a number
of vantage points to the falls. Another 30 miles or so driving got us
to our destination of Cody. Named after Buffalo Bill Cody, the town
has the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, which comprises of five
museums. These buildings are superb and the museums are as fine as we
have seen. Visit www.bbhc.org
to read up about them. If you visit Cody, be sure to visit this center.
Saturday
5 June  Yellowstone
NP
Soon after leaving Cody we came to the Buffalo
Bill Dam, which is across the Shoshone River. We followed the river
along a scenic byway for 50 miles of wooded valley, until we arrived
at the eastern entrance of Yellowstone National Park. We then climbed
into the mountains and through Sylvan Pass at over 8,500 feet above
sea level, until we came upon Yellowstone Lake. At Lake Butte
overlook we could see the vast lake beneath us. Then we dropped down
to lake level, stopping at Fishing Bridge to see cut-throat trout in
the river. We followed the shore line of the lake to West Thumb and
then took the road to the Old Faithful geyser. We waited over an hour
to see the geyser blow and it was worth it. Just down the road we
then saw some amazing hot springs and geysers, with board walks to
get amongst it all. Our journey was very slow, as we kept stopping to
view herds of bison and elk and we saw a coyote right in front of us
in the roadside. We booked two nights stay at Gardiner in the Best
Western at Mammoth Springs, just outside the north entrance to the park. |
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Sunday
6 June  Yellowstone
NP
We spent the day exploring Yellowstone. We
started in the north west sector, going across to Tower Falls. The
road south to Canyon Village was closed for repairs, so we returned
to Mammoth Hot Springs and then south to the Grand Canyon of the
Yellowstone. This canyon is spectacular with lots of stopping points
to view the Yellowstone River and Falls. The Falls are the finest we
have seen and gave wonderful rainbows to enhance the effects. We then
returned around the loop back to Mammoth, the journey starting at 9
am and finishing at 8 pm! We saw many bison and elk and a stoat like
creature that was probably a marmot. But best of all on the return
journey from Old Faithful to Madison we saw a Grizzly bear in the
woods across the meadow, some 200 years away. We also stopped at more
geysers and bubbling mud holes, with sulphur clouds belching out.
Overall we walked many miles and had a tiring day with many happy memories.
Monday 7
June  to
Jackson Hole
We stopped at Mammoth Hot Springs and walked the
terraces on the mountain, to see the hot steaming springs. Then
further down the road a wolf (or was it a coyote?) ran across our
highway and into the trees on the hillside, before we could capture
the event on film. We stopped again at Old Faithful and waited to see
it blow. This time it blew higher, but we were on the right hand side
of the viewing area and lost sight of the water spouting for all the
steam that blew across. We travelled southwards and left Yellowstone
behind as we drove through road works at the John Rockefeller
Memorial Parkway approaching Grand Teton National Park. Views of the
Teton Mountains were spectacular (a word I keep using) and we
progressed slowly as we stopped at each successive viewpoint. We
stopped alongside a number of other parked cars to see a moose in the
river, with its baby calf asleep on the river bank, between two
trees. We waited for ten minutes or so and the calf woke up and
joined its mother in the river. We were so lucky just to share the
moment. Then on to Teton Village where we checked in to the Best
Western Inn at Jackson Hole. In the evening we drove to Jackson,
which is a very busy town catering for tourists.
Tuesday 8
June  Grand
Teton NP
We had a quiet day exploring the Teton National
Park, including a drive around the Jenny Lake area. Not a lot to say
about it, but the scenery was terrific and speaks for itself. In the
evening we drove into Jackson and then west across the mountains to
just past the Idaho border and back. |
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Wednesday
9 June  The
Tetons to Logan
Before we left Teton Village we went up the ski
gondola to the top of the mountain. The trip was over two miles and
we ended up over 10,000 feet above sea level. The ride was exciting
and the views were fantastic. We stayed at the top about half an hour
and Penny was delighted that her cell phone was able to contact home,
so she sent everyone a text message. After an equally pleasant
descent, we were on our way and followed the US89 along a wide and
rich river plain, with snow capped mountains. There were ranches in
the valley, with wild flowers in the fields. We reached Bear Lake and
the weather was closing in around us and over the mountains, so we
encountered a little rain. The scenic drive from Bear Lake to Logan
follows the river and we saw canoes riding the rapids. Logan itself
is a busy town and the traffic gave us some preparation for the
following day in Salt Lake City!
Thursday
10 June  Logan
to Salt Lake City
We continued on Route 89 and drove up and over a
mountain, with the weather turning to rain. We joined Interstate 15
and left it to turn off the visit Antelope Island, which is on the
Great Salt Lake. To reach the Island, which is a State Park, we drove
a seven mile causeway across the Lake. We ate a buffalo-burger for
lunch and then drove along the coast of the Island to the Ranch,
where we saw herds of bison in the distance. We had already seen
several at close distance as we drove the road. The Ranch is a walk
around barns and the ranch house and is set out as it would have been
in the 1920's or 1930's, complete with old tractors and farm
equipment and the house fully furnished, with washing on the line
outside! We were right in the middle of the Salt Lake and the weather
around seemed severe, but we were getting sun and generally good
conditions. We stayed on the island for three or four hours and then
moved on towards Salt Lake City, where we arrived at our hotel at 4
pm. We checked in and immediately went on a coach tour of the city,
with the bus collecting us at 4.30 pm. We drove around Salt Lake City
and saw the Olympic Village, the University, Fort Douglas, The State
Capitol and stopped at This is The Place Park. We then journeyed to a
restaurant for a meal, before arriving at the Mormon Tabernacle, to
see their famous Tabernacle Choir practising, as they do every
Thursday night. However, this was a very special night, as the
audience included a number of US Army Reservists, who were attending
a convention in Salt Lake City. After a half an hour of practice, the
Choirmaster announced that in honour of the Reservists the Choir were
giving a special concert. It was amazing luck that we attended this
concert, as it was past 4 pm before we even considered going on the
bus trip, which only runs on a Thursday evening!! We were really
privileged to be able to share this experience and the concert music
was mainly USA patriotic favourite songs, ending with the American
Anthem. This was particularly poignant and appropriate, as it was the
eve of the funeral day of ex President Ronald Reagan, who first
labelled them as "America's Choir". A fabulous day. |
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Friday 11
June  Salt
Lake to Zion NP
We left Salt Lake and the clouds behind us and
raced down Interstate 15 for nearly 300 miles. We turned off for a
quick detour to visit Kolob Canyon at Junction 40, and had excellent
views of Zion from the top. Then back on the Intestate to turn off
again at Mile 27, where as we approached Zion National Park we took a
left turn down Kolob Road, towards the reservoir. This road has
spectacular views, culminating at Larva Point, where we enjoyed a 180
degree vista of Zion and surrounding areas, from the highest point
around. Then into Zion National Park, where we stayed at the Zion
Lodge, inside the Park. We had to get a red permit at the Visitor
Center, so we could take our car along the Zion Scenic Route to the
Lodge, as only shuttle buses are allowed along this road. In the
evening we attended a very interesting talk and slide show at the
Lodge, about the effect of water on the Canyon, presented by a Park Ranger. |
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Saturday
12 June  Zion
National Park
This was the last full day of our holiday and we
drove from Zion to nearby Springdale to look at the shops. We had a
couple of milk shakes in a cafe and on our way back to Zion Lodge a
wild turkey and it's tiny chick crossed the road in front of us. Off
the road a male turkey was dusting himself in the ashes of a camp
fire and there was another chick. We then walked from the Lodge to
the Emerald Pool and then along the rim to the Grotto area. The views
enabled us to see Zion Canyon from a new perspective, but the walk
was fairly strenuous and gave us needed exercise! We caught a shuttle
bus to Weeping Rock and climbed again along a path to see water
seeping from rocks, having taken years to find a route to permeate
through. Then to the end of Zion Canyon and a walk up to The Narrows.
We returned to the Lodge and then drove back to Springdale where we
watched elk at the farm by the roadside. We returned to the Lodge for
a fine dinner and attended another Park Ranger slide-show, this time
about fire and the forests. When we came out to return to our room,
there were about a dozen or so elk on the lawns in front of the
Lodge, only a few feet away in the darkness.
Next morning we drove to Las Vegas, where we
boarded our plane for the overnight flight home. We were allocated
two seats at the back of the aircraft, so did not have to sit with
anyone else.
Overall an excellent holiday and one that went
along without any problems. |
